Input Voltage Range

Match the module to your source across its whole discharge curve. A Li-ion cell runs from 4.2V down to about 3.0V, two AAs sag toward 1.8V. Pick a module whose minimum input (and start-up voltage) sits below your battery’s empty voltage.

Output: Fixed or Adjustable

Fixed 5V boards (TPS61023, mini boosters) are set-and-forget and can’t be accidentally over-volted. Trimpot boards (MT3608, XL6009) are flexible but must be set with a multimeter before connecting your microcontroller.

Real Output Current

Ignore the switch-limit headline and do the power math: P_out ≈ P_in × efficiency. The bigger the jump from input to output, the less current you get out. Leave at least 30% headroom for Wi-Fi bursts and motor inrush.

Efficiency & Synchronous Rectification

Classic modules use a Schottky diode that costs about 0.3–0.5V of loss, which hurts most at low voltages. Synchronous chips like the TPS61023 and the PowerBoost’s converter replace it with a MOSFET for longer battery life.

Protection & Ripple

Look for current limiting, thermal shutdown and under-voltage lockout. Higher switching frequency means smaller inductors and lower ripple; add a 100–470µF capacitor at the output for noisy loads like ESP32 radios or servos.

Texas Instruments’ TPS61023 is a modern synchronous boost converter, and this little board turns it into a set-and-forget 5V, 1A supply. It starts up from 1.8V and, once running, keeps regulating as the input sags all the way to 0.5V, so it squeezes nearly every last drop out of a single 18650/LiPo cell or a pair of AA batteries. With integrated MOSFETs instead of a lossy diode it runs cooler and more efficiently than an MT3608 at these low input voltages, which makes it ideal for powering an Arduino Nano, ESP32-C3 or Raspberry Pi Pico from one cell. Note that this specific listing is new and has only a handful of reviews, so buy a spare.

When space is everything, this 11 × 10.5 mm module weighs about a gram and drops straight onto a breadboard or perfboard with its 2.54 mm pins. It accepts anything from 0.9V to 5V, so a single AA, a NiMH cell, two alkalines or a coin-cell pack can all produce a steady 5V. The 480mA ceiling rules out Wi-Fi boards, but it is perfect for wearables, ATtiny and Arduino Pro Mini sensor nodes, LED badges and anything that sips current.

The PowerBoost 1000C is more than a boost converter: it is a complete portable power system. It boosts a 3.7V LiPo/Li-ion cell to a stiff 5.2V at 1A or more using a 700kHz synchronous converter with a 2A internal switch, and it also charges the battery over USB with load-sharing, so your Raspberry Pi or Arduino keeps running while the pack charges. A low-battery LED lights below 3.2V, there is an enable pin for a power switch, and the board has a USB-A footprint. It costs several times more than a bare module, but it replaces a charger, protection logic and booster with one well-documented board.

Once your source is already 12V, the small modules run out of steam. The 150W boost converter is the classic next step: 10–32V in, 12–35V adjustable out, a big toroid inductor and two heatsinks. It is the go-to board for running a 19V laptop or 24V equipment from a car battery, raising a 12V supply for a motor driver, or building an adjustable bench rail. The listing quotes up to 94% efficiency and an industrial -40 to +80°C rating. Treat 150W as a peak: add a fan above roughly 100W of continuous load.

For the heavy jobs, the 400W 15A boost module raises 8.5–50V to anything from 10V to 60V, and it adds a separate constant-current trimpot. That CC/CV pair turns it into a high-power LED driver, a lead-acid or lithium pack charger, or a solar voltage stabilizer, not just a fixed rail. It is the board to reach for when you need 36V or 48V from a 12V or 24V battery bank. The ratings are peaks, so plan on active cooling for sustained loads, and be aware this listing has fewer reviews than the smaller modules here.

Tired of setting trimpots with a multimeter clipped on? The DROK LCD boost converter shows output voltage and current on a clear LCD while you adjust, and it ships in a protective case. It steps 6–30V up to 7–32V with up to 5A, offers both constant-voltage and constant-current modes, and includes voltage calibration. That makes it a handy mini bench supply for testing 12V and 24V gear from a 5–9V source, a solar charge controller, or an LED driver you can actually read. Keep in mind the output must sit at least 1.5V above the input.

Need one module for everything?

Get the XL6009: 3–32V in, 5–35V out and a 4A switch cover most 5V to 24V jobs.

Short on space or budget?

The MT3608 is tiny, cheap in a 10-pack and takes USB power directly. Perfect for light 9–12V loads.

Running an MCU from one Li-ion cell?

Use the synchronous TPS61023 5V module for maximum battery life and a fixed, safe output.

Need charging too?

The Adafruit PowerBoost 1000C charges your LiPo and boosts it to 5V at the same time.

Boosting 12V to 19V or 24V?

The 150W module handles car batteries, laptops and 24V gear; step up to the 400W for 36–60V or LED arrays.

Want to see volts and amps?

The DROK LCD boost shows live output voltage and current with CC/CV control.

How much current can I really get from an MT3608 or XL6009?

Much less than the label. The 2A (MT3608) and 4A (XL6009) figures are internal switch limits, and the switch carries the input current. Use I_out ≈ I_in × (V_in ÷ V_out) × efficiency. Boosting 5V to 12V on an MT3608 typically gives a few hundred milliamps; an XL6009 doing the same job comfortably delivers around 1A. For anything more, move up to a 150W-class module.

Can a boost converter power an ESP32 from a single 18650 cell?

Yes. Boost the cell to 5V and feed the board’s 5V/VIN pin, letting the onboard regulator make 3.3V. A synchronous 5V module like the TPS61023 is the best match because it stays efficient as the cell drops toward 3V. Add a 220–470µF capacitor at the output to absorb the ESP32’s Wi-Fi current spikes, and use a protected cell or a charger board with under-voltage cut-off so the battery isn’t over-discharged.

What is the difference between a boost, buck and buck-boost converter?

A boost converter only raises voltage, a buck converter only lowers it, and a buck-boost converter can do either and holds the output steady even when the input crosses it. Use a boost module when your source is always below the target (one Li-ion cell to 5V, 5V to 12V). If your input can swing above and below the output, for example a 3S pack powering 12V gear, choose a buck-boost module instead.

Why is my boost module’s output equal to the input when there’s no load?

Even when it is not switching, a boost converter passes the input straight through its inductor and diode, so the output can never fall below roughly V_in minus a diode drop. If you see the input voltage at the output, the trimpot is set below the input, the module is in current limit, or the chip has shut down. Turn the trimpot (many need 10 or more turns before the voltage moves), check the input wiring, and make sure the setpoint is above the input.

How do I safely set the output voltage on an adjustable module?

Always set it with nothing connected to the output. Power the module, put a multimeter on the output terminals, and turn the trimpot slowly until you reach the target (counter-clockwise lowers the voltage on most MT3608 and XL6009 boards). Only then connect your circuit, and recheck under load. A drop of hot glue or nail polish on the trimpot stops vibration from drifting the setting, which matters in robots and vehicles.